'Clearance holes for metric fasteners' calculator was developed to calculate the recommended clearance hole sizes from M1.6 through M64 for bolts, screws and studs in three classes of clearance using close-, normal- and loose-fit category. The recommended metric drill bit size for each class of clearance hole is shown in calculation results. Re: Aussie Lokka front / rear or both? Post by nzlux ยป Mon Jun 24, 2013 12:15 am Dropped the hilux off today, speaking to the mechanic he said that it was within spec (just as it was tight with the original shims in there) and they had managed to spin a wheel and overrun the locker (using a long bar and a lot of force).
'Clearance holes for metric fasteners' calculator was developed to calculate therecommended clearance hole sizes from M1.6 through M64 for bolts, screws andstuds in three classes of clearance using close-, normal- and loose-fitcategory. The recommended metric drill bit size for each class of clearance hole is shown in calculation results. The calculator also shows nearest substitute inch drill bit size formetric fasteners.This calculator was developed by using the charts which are given in the ASME B18.2.8-1999 - ' Clearance holes for bolts, screws and studs' standard. Please Wait.RESULTSParameterValueNominal Screw Size-mmFit Class-Nominal Metric Drill Size-mmNearest Inch Drill Size-inMinimum Hole Diameter-mmMaximum Hole Diameter-Definitions:Clearance hole: A hole on a partwhere threaded section of a bolt can pass.Drill bit: A cutting tool used in drilling machines to drill a hole. Supplements:LinkUsageTabulated form of the metric clearance hole calculator.Reference:.Oberg,E., Jones,F.D., Horton H.L., Ryffel H.H., (2016).
30th edition. Industrial Press Inc.Oberg, E., Jones,F.D., Horton H.L., Ryffel H.H., (2012).
29th edition. Industrial Press Inc.ASME B18.2.8-1999, Clearance holes for bolts, screws and studs.
All things 4RunnerGuidelines.When posting pictures, add a brief description in the comments. Ignoring this rule will result in removal of the post.Please be respectful when posting. Bullying will not be tolerated.When asking for advice, please research your question beforehand.
Some problems are very common.Be as detailed as possible when asking about problems. Include model year and drive train in post (i.e. Please help, funny noise coming from engine bay.
'98 4runner V6 4wd.) Please include pictures and videos if possible.This is not a place to sell your truck or any parts for it. Please go somewhere else if that is your intent.NEW OWNERS USE THESE POSTS, BEFORE STARTING A NEW THREAD PLEASE:.Related Subs:.Looking for something more specific? Check out for a complete list of all automotive related Subreddits. Hi all,I've been shopping for my first 4x4 for a long time now. After a lot of research I've settled on the 4Runner.
It just can't be beat for what I'll be using it for.Long-story made short, I have the opportunity to pick up a '98 Limited with 136k miles on it for very cheap ($3500-$4500). The truck looks great and doesn't appear to have any issues at all. The only big catch is that it doesn't come with a locking rear differential.I'm set on getting a locking rear differential on my 4Runner, but if the cost of adding one isn't that high, I'd consider picking up this truck and adding it later.
I have access to a pretty decent selection of tools in my garage, but I'm still a novice. The most complicated jobs I've done thus far are replacing tie rod ends and fuel filters.So, has anyone modded their 4Runner to have a locking rear differential? Did you do it yourself or have a shop do the job? How much was the cost?Thanks so much all!.
You could get an aussie locker for like 300 bucks and they are pretty easy to install, I believe they include full instructions for each kind of vehicle. If you don't want a full-time locker you can try going to a junkyard or craigslist and getting an axle that already has an e-locker and just swap that in (different gearing though 4.30 so you would want to re-gear front). The elocker can be cheap if you can get it from someone who doesnt know what they have.My vote is go simple and get an Aussie. If you don't feel comfortable installing it yourself, a gear shop should be able to do one in under 3 hours so figure $300 for labor depending on where you live.Also please please go to the 4runner forums.
There are a lot more guys there than on here and can help a lot more. Plus you can just search the webiste and there are.
Definitely read up on locker threads; T4R.org is a gold mine for these rigs.I looked into it once for my '01 and while I don't remember the details, I do recall that certain years are much easier to do than others. There are also differences in the 4WD systems after a certain year, '99 I believe. My first 4Runner was a '98 w/a rear locker. I now have an '01 w/a center locking diff. The '98 wasn't supposed to be driven at highway speeds in 4hi, but the '01 can be driven at all speeds in 4hi.
No I mean Aussie, it's a non-selectable lockerTo be blunt, what kind of wheeling do you do to justify a locker. If you don't have many tools or wheeling experience, and can't do a google search for different locker types, I don't see you actually having a need for one. I know I sound like a dick but before getting a locker I would do some oem replacement stuff on suspension and whatnot to get your mechanical skills down before you tackle your diff. But that's just my 2 cents.I started out not knowing anything about wheeling or working on my truck. It took me a few years of building my tool set and knowledge to get me to where I currently am (which is still not very knowledgeable comparatively). I don't know what you have done but I would work your way up on work on your truck from smaller jobs to bigger ones.
While cool to have, you may find it plenty capable without a locker. What sort of wheeling are you planning on doing?It's not an easy task though. Figure $500-$800 to get someone to install an ARB locker for you.Swapping in a factory e-locker requires either carrier modification or swapping the entire axle. And as mentioned, potentially regearing in the front to match if you swap the axles. You could get lucky though - I just picked up a parts car with a recently dealer serviced elocker for $350.
Still deciding if I'm going to sell it or swap 'em. But on eBay last week was a locker for $650 and an axle carrier for $350 - not cheap parts.My advice would be to get the car and focus on a lot of other mods before a locker. If tires, wheels, brakes, lift, etc still leave you stuck places, then put a grand into a locker. His advice is quite valid considering a lot of people get a 4x4 because to them 'off-roading' is driving on a maintained dirt fire road or double track to go camping, in which case you would never need a locker. However when you start tackling trails that are actually designated for high-clearance vehicles, you'll eventually run into situations where a locker is great to have.
For example is probably the only situation I've been in where 4Lo wouldn't cut it and I HAD to use the locker. (Granted I was completely stock and those tires suck balls).It sounds like you've read up on how diffs work and why a locking one is ideal in certain situations, so is an example of where even in 4Lo the open diffs means you get no traction.With all this being said, sometimes lockers are just a crutch to make certain terrain/obstacles easier. That's because in a lot of cases (especially my second example) you could take a better line that will take you through that same section even with open diffs.
Good on you for providing pics.Most people don't understand that all it take is unloading diagonally opposite wheels like that.Having said that, maybe a little momentum would get you through something like that.I was once on a trail called Hackett gulch which is an out-and-back. Drove over some nice granite. Got up to a steepish section that was the crux of the trail.
Truck walked right up it. Fun.On the way out, nearly done, we came across a guy also with a Toyota who was going in. He let us past.
Then we hear a screaming engine. He hadn't made it to the main obstacle yet. You see just there was this nice big slab of pretty flat granite a few dozen square yards in area. The top of the slab was a good few inches higher than the ground, sort of a mini step.
Didn't even occur to me that it was an obstacle. But he couldn't get up it. He had no lockers.At first he was just adding more throttle. Spinning tires.
Digging out the sand more and making the step taller. Leaving black marks on the rock. Then he tried adding speed. His front end was bouncing in the air and so he couldn't carry enough momentum. His spinning front wheels were landing on the rock.
I was waiting for a CV to let go. Eventually he hit it with so much speed that the truck just sort of bounced high in the air and somehow got all 4 tires up.The next problem was that the rock wasn't perfectly flat, it unloaded diagonally opposite tires. Not even as bad as your photos, but the granite wasn't particularly grippy. So again he was spinning wheels and leaving rubber everywhere. Only problem was, now he couldn't get a run up. If he went too far back he'd slide back off the rock he spent so much effort getting on to.About then I got fed up with watching the trail get destroyed and went on my way before he gave up.I wish I took a video that day to show that having lockers isn't a crutch - they prevent a lot of damage to both the trail and the vehicle.After typing all that, I actually just did a google image search and found a pic of the rock.Doesn't really look like much does it?.
Firstly, good choice on the 4runner. I remember your thread in from a few weeks back.Yes get a locker. I'm guessing your in CO, we have lots of great trails in the mountains, many that need a locker to complete. Moab is not far and a locker really helps out there too.I've run an aussie locker before and I think their junk. Bad road manners.
When they break (not if) they destroy your diff.A couple of years ago now, I got on found a salvage yard with and axle with a factory e-locker, called them up and got it delivered to my door for $450. I just did a quick search and there is one in Loveland CO now for $450.The physical swap over isn't that hard. Wiring them up is not to hard either. But if you're not that used to wrenching, just jump on one of the Toyota forums and find a local crowd and ask for help.In fact I recommend doing that even if you don't end up trying to get a locker.The front range crowd are a pretty friendly bunch.Do some trail runs and appreciate where you need the locker.